Local History, Legends and Myths
We’d never want to put you off visiting our lovely country, but some pretty nasty stuff has happened in Wales over the last 250,000 years or so. It’s fine now, though, honest.
1110 Llandovery Castle
Attractions in the town include the remains of Llandovery Castle, built in 1110 and almost immediately captured by the Welsh, changing hands between Normans and Welsh until the reign of King Edward I of England. The castle was used by King Henry IV while on a sortie into Wales when he executed Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Fychan supposedly in the marketplace. It was later attacked by the forces of Owain Glyndŵr in 1403.
The story of Llywelyn ap Gwynedd
One of the most famous residents is Llywelyn ap Gruffydd, a statue of whom stands gleaming next door to the hill-top ruins of Llandovery Castle. Once the location of violent attacks and battles during medieval times, those who climb up to the castle will be rewarded with peaceful views over the town and the River Bran.
Llywelyn ap Gruffydd (1223-1282) was also known as Llywelyn ap Gwynedd and Llywelyn the Last. Of course, he didn’t know he was going to be the last. He probably thought he’d be the first in a long line of Welsh princes.
Henry III gave Llywelyn the title of ‘Prince of Wales’ and he had to fight to keep Wales for the Welsh. In 1282 he rebelled against King Edward of England.
He burned Edward’s castles and fought Edward’s troops. Edward was furious. But while Llywelyn was away gathering a new army, the English attacked first.
The Welsh were beaten near Builth Wells. They say 3,000 Welsh were slaughtered, and the rest put down their weapons – then the English slaughtered them. (Some people believe the corpses are buried under the course at Builth Wells Golf Club).
Llywelyn heard the battle and rushed back. But it was a trap. He’d been betrayed.
When Llywelyn got to the Orewin Bridge he met an English knight, Stephan de Frankton, who challenged him to a fight. Llywelyn was the most wanted man in Britain – but Stephen de Frankton had no idea he was fighting the Prince Of Wales, as Llywelyn wasn’t wearing any armour – just a tunic. Stephen de Frankton charged at him with a lance. When he found out who he’d killed, he cut off Llywelyn’s head and it was put on show in English towns.
There’s a stone monument at the nearby village of Cilmeri where Llywelyn fell. It says: Ein Llyw Olaf ...Our Last Ruler.
Anthony Pease photography
HRH Prince of Wales
It has been many years since there was a residence Prince in Wales.
History
William Williams, a relative to Anne Boleyn, was the original owner of a local dwelling names Llwynymermod in the hills of Myddfai back in the 13th or 14th Centuries. At some time, the Griffies-Williams took on the title of a baronetcy in the early 18th century being close to the royals.
In 2006, Llwynywermod was purchased by the Duchy of Cornwall as a residence for the Duke in Wales. The Duchy completed its purchase of the property in March 2007. Prince Charles and Camilla, Duchess of York, took up residence at the property in summer 2008.
Interesting residence
Other interesting former residents of the town include the 'sweet songster' William Williams Pantycelyn who wrote the famous hymn "Guide me oh thou Great Jehovah" which is sung regularly at rugby matches; and Vicar Rhys Pritchard who compiled the influential poem Cannwyll y Cymry (usually translated as The Welshman's Candle), a collection of poetical teachings and moral guidance. Droving is an important part of Llandovery's history and it was this passing circus of men and animals which contributed to the architecture of the town.
Don't miss the popular Llandovery Sheep Festival, held every September, where you may see live sheep racing in the street!
Llandovery Mace Bearers
In 1485 King Richard III granted Llandovery a Royal Charter which gave the town Borough status. Under this charter a Sergeant-at-Mace was chosen by the Bailiff and a second selected by the Burgesses of the town. Today, Llandovery is proud to have retained these offices.
The lady of the lake and the physicians of Myddfai
The Carmarthenshire village of Myddfai could perhaps be the birthplace of modern medicine. According to
legend, a dynasty of herbalists known as the Physicians of Myddfai lived and worked here in the 11th and 12th
centuries. Some believed they had magical powers.
The 14th century Red Book of Hergest, one of the most ancient manuscript volumes in existence, contains a tale
set which begins beside Llyn-y-Fan Fach, the lake below the peak of Black Mountain in the west of the Brecon Beacons National Park. The same tale is recorded in Mabinogion, a collection of Welsh folktales that date back to medieval times.
According to the story, a Carmarthenshire farmer once saw a beautiful woman sitting on a rock in Lyn-y-Fan Fach. After three attempts to woo her, she agreed to marry him if he promised to treat her well. If he were to strike her three times without cause, she said, she would return to the lake.
The farmer made his promise and took her down to the village of Myddfai to live with him as his wife.
The time came for the christening of their first child. The farmer was overjoyed, but the lady cried because, through her magical instincts, she knew the baby would be harmed by the sun. Misunderstanding, the farmer tapped her lightly to bring her round.
Later, she cried at a wedding because she knew the bridegroom would soon die. Again, the farmer tapped her
lightly to bring her to her senses.
Finally, she laughed at the bridegroom's funeral because she knew his suffering was over and she was happy
for him. And the farmer tapped her again.
Immediately, the lady sped back to the lake. The farmer, powerless to stop her, was left heartbroken, destined to
bring up their three sons alone. As the sons grew up, it became clear that they had inherited their mother's
magical knowledge and powers. They could have used these to become great warriors, but chose instead to
become the first in a long line of great healers.
Using natural products gathered from the surrounding area, the Physicians of Myddfai created cures and
remedies for headaches, sunburn, swellings, coughs and sneezes. Some of these ancient remedies are recorded
in the Red Book of Hergest. The book itself currently belongs to Jesus College, Oxford, and is kept in the Bodleian Library.
Some believe that the myth of Llyn-y-Fan Fach gave rise to another famous tale – the Arthurian legend of the Lady of the Lake and Excalibur.
Twm Sion Cati - Outlaw and highwayman
Twm, born Thomas Jones, was supposedly born in about 1530 at Tregaron and according to legend Twm was a man who led a double life. He was respected in his community, he was a gentleman farmer and land owner.
However, legend declares that Thomas Jones became the redoubtable and fiendishly clever outlaw and highwayman named Twm Sion Cati. Welsh legend, and in more recent times, knows Twm Sion Cati as the real Welsh Robin Hood and is known to be one of the most famous of all Welsh men with his stories told to children across Wales. Like Robin Hood, the stories of Twm Sion Cati are many and varied. According to one well known tale he once stole a fine chestnut horse from a farmer named Powell. Twm then painted the animal grey and sold it back to the farmer - who didn't uncover the crime until rain washed the paint off the horse! Legand says that Twm had a hideout in a cave overlooking the river between Tregaron and Llandovery, here he kept the spoils of his highway activities but, hardly surprising, the cave has never been located and the treasure remains untouched. However a cave has been found and many say that this was Twm's hideout. Twm hid the treasure well in this cave as nothing has been found as yet....
David Jones & Co (1799-1909)
David Jones & Co.'s first bank. The private partnership of David Jones & Co. was founded in Llandovery, Wales in 1799. The area was renowned for its black cattle. Indeed, it was these animals that brought about the formation of the bank. Llandovery was a central meeting point for the Carmarthenshire drovers – these were the men who herded the famous livestock, on foot, along the long and dusty roads from Wales, into England and on to London, where the cattle were eventually sold. The drovers also acted as financiers for the farmers, paying their creditors with the proceeds of the sales in London.
The job of the drover was a difficult and hazardous one, as their well-worn routes attracted highwaymen. With risks such as these, they carried as little cash as possible.
As a result, droving banks were established along the way, including that of David Jones & Co. Jones was the son of a local farmer. He had married well, his wife bringing with her some £10,000. It was these funds that Jones used as capital to set up his bank.
The Success of the Black Ox
As with many country banks in England and Wales, the Llandovery bank had a licence to print its own banknotes. These featured a picture of a black ox, which led to the bank becoming known as the Black Ox Bank or Banc yr Eidion Du. The ox became such a strong symbol of trust and integrity that, even into the 19th century, Bank of England notes were treated with great suspicion in much of West Wales.
David Jones & Co. £5 banknote Cheque issued by David Jones & Co.'s Llandovery branch, c.1900
Under David Jones’s charge, the Black Ox Bank survived the financial crises of the early 19th century. In fact, the Bank expanded, taking over Jones, Evans & Co. in 1839. David Jones died a wealthy man, later that same year. The business was carried on and further expanded by his three grandsons: John running the Llandovery branch, David working in Llandeilo branch (opened in 1842) and William at Lampeter (1831).
The Black Ox Bank was taken over by Lloyds Bank in 1909. By this time, it was one of the largest banks in Carmarthenshire. However, the face of banking was rapidly changing, and the days of the smaller banks, particularly the private ones, were numbered. The ox symbol continued to appear on local Lloyds Bank cheques for another 20 years. Llandovery Branch today still has the initials of its founder over the main entrance.
Llandovery College 1848 - Present
Llandovery College was founded and endowed by surgeon Thomas Phillips in 1847 to provide a classical and liberal educationin which the Welsh language, the study of Welsh literature and history, were to be cultivated. The town of Llandovery was decided upon "because of its central position and because of easy communication with all parts of South Wales". Also important was “the great beauty and healthiness of the locality and the absence of manufacturing industries". The school first opened with a handful of boys on St David's Day 1848. On 13 December 1849, the foundation stone of the present building was laid.
Llandovery College has connections with the early adoption of rugby into Wales. Although St David's College, Lampeter is accepted as the first establishment to play rugby, Llandovery was one of their first opponents, were present at the formation of the Welsh Rugby Union in Neath in 1881 and provided two players to the very first international game Wales played. The second captain of the Welsh national team, Charles Lewis, represented Llandovery College and was the first Wales captain to lead a team in the Home Nations Championship.
